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The year was 1905 and the place was London, England. Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis founded "Wilsdorf & Davis" and began importing high-quality Swiss watch movements, produced by Hermann Aegler, and placing them in good-quality cases made by Dennison and others. These early watches were sold to jewelers who marketed them with their own names on the dial. The earliest known examples of Wilsdorf & Davis watches are signed "W&D" inside the case back. Contrary to popular belief, Wilsdorf was neither Swiss nor a watchmaker. Wilsdorf was a German national, and Davis was British.
The "Rolex" trademark was registered in 1908, and the firm opened an office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the world's center for high-quality watchmaking. There is some debate as to the origins of the Rolex name. Wilsdorf was said to want an easily recognizable name that could be pronounced in any language and would fit easily on the dial of a watch. Some suggest that the name came from the French phrase horlogerie exquise, meaning "exquisite horology". J.P. Hess and James Dowling, in their book The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches, An Unauthorized History, clam that the name was just made up. "Rolex" was first registered as a company name on November 15, 1915. The Rolex name did not appear on the watch dial until 1926.
In 1919, the company's headquarters was moved to Geneva, Switzerland, because taxes and export duties in the United Kingdom were driving up costs. The company was first established in Geneva as the Rolex Watch Company. Subsequently, the name was changed to Montres Rolex, SA and finally just Rolex, SA.
One of the most important developments in the history of Rolex watches came when Wilsdorf purchased the patent for a revolutionary moisture-proof winding stem and crown from its inventors, George Peret and Paul Perregaux. The result of this acquisition was the development of the world's first truly waterproof case, which was given the name "Oyster" in 1926. In an effort to market the new Oyster watch, Wilsdorf hired a young London typist named Mercedes Glietz, the first woman to swim the English Channel. In 1927, prior to Glietz' second attempt to swim the Channel, Wilsdorf announced to the world that she would be wearing his water-proof Rolex Oyster watch and that she would emerge from the water and his watch would be running and on time, something which had never been previously accomplished. Though Miss Glietz did not complete this second crossing, which occurred under much more difficult conditions than her first swim, the watch performed beautifully. She and her Rolex Oyster made headlines around the world!
To this day, Rolex continues to form creative advertising partnerships with athletes and athletic events. They are the official timekeeper of the Wimbledon and Australian Open tennis tournaments, and the Americas Cup yacht races, just to name a few.
After his wife died in 1944, Wilsdorf established the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation to which he left all of his Rolex shares, ensuring that a significant portion of the company's income would go to charity in perpetuity. Rolex is still owned by this private charitable trust which supports many children's charities (Mr. Wilsdorf was an orphan) and cutting-edge entrepreneurial endeavors (Mr. Wilsdorf held over 700 patents). No Rolex shares are traded on any public exchange.
Today, the Rolex brand is recognized throughout the world as a symbol of prestige and quality. Rolex is by far the single largest luxury watch brand, producing about 2000 watches per day, and is certainly one of the top watch brands in the world.

Rolex has made many important contributions to the field of horology. Some key innovations are:
Rolex holds the record for the most certified chronometer movements in the category of wristwatches. Rolex also participated in the development of the original quartz watch movement. Although Rolex has made very few battery-powered quartz models, the company's engineers were instrumental in design and implementation of the technology during the early 1970s.
We are currently not accepting modern Rolex watches for repair because Rolex does not supply spare parts or technical information to many qualified independent watchmakers. To learn more about Swiss watch manufacturers' restrictions on parts distribution.
The Rolex brand has been frequently copied, and you have no doubt seen email advertisements for imitation Rolex watches at deep-discount prices. Don't waste your money! These watches are cheap, poorly-made fakes that are not serviceable and will not perform like the genuine article. Counterfeiting products is illegal. We do not encourage or endorse the purchase of any counterfeit watch!
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Rolex serial numbers are located on the side of the watch case, between the lugs on the 6:00 end. It is usually necessary to release the bracelet in order to see the serial number. This should only be done by an experienced watchmaker to prevent scratching the case or bracelet. You should never purchase a Rolex watch if the serial number has been removed or tampered with.
| Year | S/N |
|---|---|
| 1966 | 1871000 |
| 1966 | 1994956 |
| 1967 | 2163900 |
| 1968 | 2426800 |
| 1970 | 2555384 |
| 1969 | 2689700 |
| 1970 | 2952600 |
| 1971 | 3215500 |
| 1972 | 3478400 |
| 1973 | 3741300 |
| 1974 | 4004200 |
| 1975 | 4267100 |
| 1976 | 4538000 |
| 1977 | 5008000 |
| 1978 | 5482000 |
| 1979 | 5958000 |
| Year | S/N |
|---|---|
| 1980 | 6434000 |
| 1981 | 6910000 |
| 1982 | 7386000 |
| 1983 | 7862000 |
| 1984 | 8338000 |
| 1985 | 8614000 |
| 1986 | 9290000 |
| 1987 | 9766000 |
| 1987 1/2 | 9999999 |
| 1987 1/2 | R000001 |
| 1988 | R999999 |
| 1989 | L000001 |
| 1990 1/2 | L999999 |
| 1990 1/2 | E000001 |
| 1991 1/2 | E999999 |
| 1991 1/2 | X000001 |
| Year | S/N |
|---|---|
| Nov 1991 | N000001 |
| 1992 1/4 | C000001 |
| 1993 3/4 | S000001 |
| 1995 - 1998 | W000001 |
| 1996 - 1998 | T000001 |
| Aug 1997 | U000001 |
| Nov 1998 | A000001 |
| Apr 2000 | P000001 |
| Aug 2001 | K000001 |
| Sept 2002 | Y000001 |
| Jan 2004 | F000001 |
| Jan 05 - Jul 06 | D000001 |
| July 06 - Dec 07 | Z000001 |
| Jan 08 - Nov 08 | M000001 |
| Dec 08 - 2010 | V000001 |
| 2010 - Present | G |
| Caliber | Model | Year |
|---|---|---|
| 3035 | Date / Datejust / Submariner | 1977 |
| 3085 | GMT | 1977 |
| 3055 | Day-Date | 1977 |
| 3075 | GMT II / Explorer II |
1981 |
| 3135 | Date / Datejust / Submariner | 1988 |
| 3175 | GMT II / Explorer II | 1988 |
| 3185 | GMT | 1988 |
| 3155 | Day-Date | 1988 |
| 3000 | Non-Date | 1990 |
| Year | Serial |
| 2016 | random |
| 2015 | random |
| 2014 | random |
| 2013 | random |
| 2012 | random |
| 2011 | random |
| 2010 | G |
| 2009 | V |
| 2008 | M OR V |
| 2007 | M OR Z |
| 2006 | Z |
| 2005 | D |
| 2004 | F |
| 2003 | F |
| 2002 | Y |
| 2001 | K |
| 2000 | P |
| 1999 | A |
| 1998 | U |
| 1997 | U |
| 1996 | T |
| 1995 | W |
| 1994 | S |
| 1993 | S |
| 1992 | C |
| 1991 | E OR X OR N |
| 1990 | E |
| 1989 | L |
| 1988 | R |
| 1987 | 9,300,000 |
| 1986 | 8,850,000 |
| 1985 | 8,600,000 |
| 1984 | 7,800,000 |
| 1983 | 7,620,000 |
| 1982 | 7,400,000 |
| 1981 | 6,630,000 |
| 1980 | 6,240,000 |
| 1979 | 5,850,000 |
| 1978 | 5,780,000 |
| 1977 | 5,300,000 |
| 1977 | 4,500,000 |
| 1976 | 4,250,000 |
| 1975 | 4,100,000 |
| 1974 | 3,600,000 |
| 1973 | 3,640,000 |
| 1972 | 3,380,000 |
| 1971 | 2,900,000 |
| 1970 | 2,730,000 |
| 1969 | 2,290,000 |
| 1968 | 1,760,000 |
| 1967 | 1,430,000 |
| 1966 | 1,380,000 |
| 1965 | 1,200,000 |
| 1964 | 1,100,000 |
| 1963 | 900,000 |
| 1962 | 764,000 |
| 1961 | 650,000 |
| 1960 | 520,000 |
| 1959 | 490,000 |
| 1958 | 426,000 |
| 1957 | 265,000 |
| 1956 | 212,000 |
| 1955 | 210,000 |
| 1954 | 950,000 |
| 1953 | 920,000 |
| 1952 | 900,000 |
| 1951 | 740,000 |
| 1950 | 700,000 |
| 1949 | 654,000 |
| 1948 | 572,000 |
| 1947 | 480,000 |
| 1946 | 425,000 |
| 1945 | 402,000 |
| 1944 | 288,000 |
| 1943 | 260,000 |
| 1942 | 206,000 |
| 1941 | 185,000 |
| 1940 | 57,000 |
| 1939 | 45,000 |
| 1938 | 28,000 |
| 1937 | 25,000 |
| 1936 | 20,000 |
| 1935 | 15,000 |
| 1934 | 10,000 |
| 1932 | 8,000 |
| 1931 | 7,000 |
| 1930 | 6,000 |
| 1929 | 5,000 |
| 1928 | 4,000 |
| 1927 | 3,000 |
| 1926 | 2,000 |
ROLEX MODEL NUMBERS
To identify Rolex Watch Model or Even Tudor Watch Model – First Locate the model or reference number, which is located inside the case lug side, this is located on the 12:00 hour dial side in between the lugs under the bracelet or strap. Watch lugs are used with spring bars to hold the watch strap or bracelet. This 4–8-digit number is engraved by Rolex on every watch, and it can be used to determine its production date. Vintage Rolexes usually have 4 digits. This chart does not identify with with 4 digit numbers will since was not tracked that way for example 1957 Vintage Rolex Watch Reference 6694 Oysterdate Precision – 66 identifies as Day Date which this is not, use for 5 digits and more. Or when it applies.
The model number can indicate the model type, bezel, and material of your watch. For example, the reference number 16014 can be broken out into three sections, which are 160 | 1| 4. The first, 160, indicates that this watch is a Datejust. The second, 1, indicates that the bezel is a finely engine turned bezel. The third, 4, indicates that the watch material is Stainless w/ 18k White Gold.
|
ROLEX TYPE: |
|
|
Submariner (no date) |
55 & 140 |
|
Submariner |
16, 166 & 168 |
|
Sea Dweller |
16 & 166 |
|
GMT Master |
16, 65, 167 |
|
GMT Master II |
167, 1167 |
|
Day-Date (President) |
65, 66, 18, 180, 182 & 183 |
|
Datejust |
16 & 162 |
|
Daytona Manual Wind |
62 |
|
Daytona Cosmograph |
165, 1165 |
|
Explorer II |
165 |
|
Oyster Perpetual |
10, 140, 142 |
|
Airking |
55 & 140 |
|
Date |
15 & 150 |
|
OysterquartzDatejust |
170 |
|
Oysterquartz Day-Date |
190 |
|
Yachtmaster |
166, 686 & 696 |
|
Midsize Oyster Perp DJ |
68, 682 |
|
Ladies Oyster Perpetual |
67, 671, 672 |
|
Ladies Date |
65, 69, 691 & 692 |
|
Ladies Datejust |
65, 69, 691 & 692 |
|
ROLEX BEZEL TYPE: |
|
|
Polished |
0 |
|
Finely Engine Turned |
1 |
|
Engine Turned |
2 |
|
Fluted |
3 |
|
Hand-Crafted |
4 |
|
Pyramid |
5 |
|
Rotating Bezel |
6 |
|
ROLEX CASE MATERIAL TYPE: |
|
|
Stainless |
0 |
|
Yellow Gold Filled |
1 |
|
White Gold Filled |
2 |
|
Stainless & Yellow Gold |
3 |
|
Stainless w/ 18k White Gold |
4 |
|
Gold Shell |
5 |
|
Platinum |
6 |
|
14k Yellow Gold |
7 |
|
18k Yellow Gold |
8 |
Rolex bracelet clasp codes
Many Rolex watches have a clasp code located inside the clasp hinge of the bracelet. This code is based on the month and year the clasp was manufactured. After inspecting the clasp, you will see 1 or 2 letters followed by a number. The letter corresponds with a year and the number signifies a month. For instance, per the table below, we see that a bracelet stamped G4 was manufactured in April 1982. A service replacement” bracelet would have an additional “S” stamped along with the year.
|
BRACELET CODE |
YEAR |
|
A or VA |
1976 |
|
B or VB |
1977 |
|
C or VC |
1978 |
|
D or VD |
1979 |
|
E or VE |
1980 |
|
F or VF |
1981 |
|
G |
1982 |
|
H |
1983 |
|
I |
1984 |
|
J |
1985 |
|
K |
1986 |
|
L |
1987 |
|
M |
1988 |
|
N |
1989 |
|
O |
1990 |
|
P |
1991 |
|
Q |
1992 |
|
R |
1993 |
|
S |
1994 |
|
T or W |
1995 |
|
V |
1996 |
|
Z |
1997 |
|
U |
1998 |
|
X |
1999 |
|
AB |
2000 |
|
DE |
2001 |
|
DT |
2002 |
|
AD |
2003 |
|
CL |
2004 |
|
MA |
2005 |
|
OP |
2006 |
|
EO |
2007 |
|
PJ |
2008 |
|
LT |
2009 |
|
RS |
2010 |
|
RANDOM |
201+ |
ROLEX Country codes identifier
The table below lists all of the 3-digit country codes for Rolex watches. This country code can be found in the upper left-hand corner on the Rolex Guaranty Certificate. There is no country code for the USA and most watches older than 1980 will not have a country code.
|
ODE |
COUNTRY |
|
010 |
Switzerland |
|
012 |
Switzerland |
|
013 |
Switzerland |
|
014 |
Switzerland |
|
015 |
Switzerland |
|
021 |
Switzerland |
|
025 |
Switzerland |
|
026 |
Switzerland |
|
033 |
Switzerland |
|
045 |
Switzerland |
|
100 |
Germany |
|
110 |
France |
|
113 |
France |
|
120 |
Austria |
|
121 |
Austria |
|
123 |
Austria |
|
126 |
Austria |
|
128 |
Austria |
|
130 |
Belgium / Luxemburg |
|
133 |
Netherlands |
|
134 |
Netherlands |
|
135 |
Netherlands |
|
CODE |
COUNTRY |
|
137 |
Netherlands |
|
138 |
Netherlands |
|
150 |
Spain |
|
160 |
England |
|
170 |
Italy |
|
200 |
Greece |
|
201 |
Malta |
|
202 |
Turkey |
|
208 |
Greece |
|
213 |
Portugal |
|
217 |
Portugal |
|
226 |
Denmark |
|
228 |
Denmark |
|
233 |
Denmark |
|
237 |
Iceland |
|
265 |
Sweden |
|
267 |
Sweden |
|
270 |
Sweden |
|
271 |
Sweden |
|
283 |
Finnland |
|
321 |
Czech Republic |
|
400 |
Hong Kong |
|
CODE |
COUNTRY |
|
413 |
Korea |
|
430 |
Singapore / Brunai |
|
431 |
Malaysia |
|
440 |
Taiwan |
|
500 |
India |
|
505 |
Pakistan |
|
527 |
Middle East |
|
532 |
Saudi Arabia |
|
536 |
Abu Dhabi |
|
537 |
Dubai |
|
538 |
Oman |
|
542 |
Iran |
|
548 |
Israel |
|
680 |
South Afrika |
|
700 |
Canada |
|
710 |
USA |
|
720 |
Mexico |
|
741 |
Bahamas |
|
742 |
Bermuda |
|
752 |
Jamaica |
|
758 |
Virgin Islands |
|
761 |
Netherlands Antilles |
|
CODE |
COUNTRY |
|
762 |
Aruba |
|
765 |
Antigua |
|
766 |
Saint Martin |
|
767 |
Grand Cayman |
|
768 |
Panama |
|
770 |
Venezuela |
|
780 |
Brazil |
|
781 |
Chile |
|
783 |
Peru |
|
790 |
Argentina |
|
810 |
Australia |
|
818 |
Philippines |
|
828 |
China |
|
842 |
New Zealand |
|
871 |
Hawaii |
|
872 |
Alaska |
|
873 |
Guam |
|
888 |
Hong Kong |
|
900 |
Japan |
|
906 |
Natex Retail, German NATO Airbase |
Rolex was founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis under the name “Wilsdorf & Davis.” The company moved to Geneva, Switzerland in 1919 and was renamed Rolex. Wilsdorf was German, not Swiss, and was not a watchmaker by trade.
The origin of the name “Rolex” is debated. Wilsdorf wanted a name that could be pronounced in any language and fit easily on a dial. Some suggest it derives from the French horlogerie exquise (“exquisite horology”), while others believe it was simply invented. The trademark was registered in 1908.
The 1926 Oyster case — the world’s first truly waterproof wristwatch — is widely considered Rolex’s most significant contribution to horology. Other milestones include the first self-winding rotor (1932), the Datejust with automatic date change (1945), the Submariner (1953), and the GMT-Master dual time zone watch (1954).
The serial number is engraved on the side of the case at the 6 o’clock end, between the lugs. You will need to remove the bracelet to see it — this should only be done by a qualified watchmaker to avoid scratching the case. Never purchase a Rolex if the serial number has been removed or tampered with.
The reference number is engraved on the case at the 12 o’clock end, between the lugs. Like the serial number, the bracelet must be removed to access it. Vintage Rolexes typically have 4-digit references; modern models have 5 or more digits.
The reference number encodes the model, bezel type, and case material. For example, reference 16014 breaks down as 160 | 1 | 4 — 160 = Datejust, 1 = Finely Engine Turned bezel, 4 = Stainless with 18k White Gold. See the Model Numbers and Bezel/Case Material tables above for the full code breakdown.
The clasp code stamped inside the bracelet hinge indicates the month and year of manufacture. The letter corresponds to the year and the number to the month. For example, G4 = April 1982. Service replacement bracelets carry an additional “S” stamp.
The 3-digit country code in the upper left corner of the Rolex Guarantee Certificate identifies the country where the watch was sold. There is no code for the USA, and most watches made before 1980 will not have one. See the full country code table above.
Most Rolex Oyster models are water-resistant to at least 100 meters (330 feet). The Submariner is rated to 300 meters and the Sea-Dweller to 1,220 meters. Water resistance can degrade over time — Rolex recommends having the seals tested annually if the watch is regularly exposed to water.
Rolex recommends servicing approximately every 10 years under normal use, though vintage models may require more frequent attention. A full service includes cleaning, lubrication, seal replacement, and timing regulation.
Servicing a Rolex is a meticulous, multi‑step overhaul performed by certified watchmakers to maintain precision, reliability, and appearance. It is generally recommended every 5–10 years, with more frequent service for daily wearers or watches exposed to water or shocks.
Rolex movements rely on lubricants and seals that degrade over time. Without regular maintenance, friction, dirt, and worn gaskets can cause timing errors, loss of water resistance, and permanent damage to components. Regular servicing also helps retain resale value, since a documented service history increases buyer confidence.
Official guidance places modern Rolex service intervals near 10 years, but practical intervals depend on usage. Daily wearers should consider servicing every 5–7 years, and watches used in water or extreme conditions may need attention sooner.
A full Rolex service is a comprehensive overhaul that typically follows these steps performed by authorized or certified technicians:
Initial inspection — record condition and any owner requests.
Disassembly — remove bracelet and separate movement from case.
Movement overhaul — full dismantling, ultrasonic cleaning, inspection, replacement of worn parts, reassembly, lubrication, and timing adjustment to chronometer standards.
Case and bracelet refinishing — polish or satin finish restored to original design. (on Request only)
Reassembly and sealing — movement cased, gaskets replaced, and waterproof testing performed.
Final checks — technical and aesthetic inspections to meet factory standards.
Return — watch returned with documentation and a service guarantee (commonly a two‑year warranty on parts and labor from many service centers).
Routine cleaning: wipe with a microfiber cloth.
Storage: keep in original box or protective case.
Avoid: shocks, strong magnets, harsh chemicals.
Polishing: occasional professional polishing only to preserve case lines.
Water checks: test gaskets regularly if exposed to water.
Risks: Neglecting service can lead to costly movement damage and reduced resale value. Choose authorized centers for full factory support or vetted independents for cost savings.
Key indicators include the smooth sweep of the seconds hand, the magnified Cyclops date lens, engraved serial and reference numbers between the lugs, and the weight and finish of the case and bracelet. Counterfeit Rolexes are illegal and will not perform or hold value. If in doubt, contact us for a professional assessment.
Yes. We buy, sell, and trade pre-owned and vintage Rolex watches. Visit our Sell or Trade page to get started, or contact us directly.
Our team at Experts Watches has decades of experience authenticating and appraising Rolex and other vintage luxury watches. We can help you decode any serial or reference number, verify authenticity, and assess current market value.
📚 Related Guides at Experts Watches:
• Watch Case & Bracelet Metal Codes — universal hallmarks and metal identification guide.
• Watch Complications & Functions Guide — every complication explained for collectors.
• Watch Movements That Changed The World — iconic calibers and horological history.
• Rolex Serial Number Lookup — date your Rolex by serial number.
• Certified Pre-Owned Program — every watch inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house.
• Sell or Trade Your Watch — get a fair appraisal from our expert team.
Browse our full collection of luxury and vintage watches — authenticated, serviced, and priced for serious collectors.
Experts Watches is not affiliated with Rolex SA. The Rolex name and model names shown here are trademarks of Rolex SA. Information provided for educational and reference purposes only.
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