Zodiac Watches History - Swiss 1882

Zodiac Watches History

Iconic Models, Legacy & Vintage Timepieces

The trademark Zodiac, now over a hundred years old, was only registered in 1908, after having been used for years, by the grandson of the founder of the factory, which was run at that time under the family name of a dynasty of watchmakers: Calame.

The known roots of this family go back to 1537. They are clearly older because the name Calame is to be found in the archives in Le Locle in a document of that time. This states that the lord of the region, Lord de Valangin Rene de Chilland, was promoting the members of this family to the rank of "free-dwellers".

Finding small holders to occupy the land before others took it over was a policy followed for a long time by the Lords of Valangin and Neuchatel, but also by their neighbors.

So it was that in 1650 Guillaume Calame left Le Locle, attracted by the advantages offered by the Prince-Bishop of Basel, sovereign of a territory corresponding to the present Jura including the Franches-Montaganes at the north-east frontier of the Calangin seignuery- now the eastern end of the district of La Chaux-de-Fonds. He set up house St. Le Creux-des-Biches near La Ferriere, twenty kilometers or so from Le Locle.

And it was here that the matchmaking dynasty began; in 1820 you find Jacob Calame, owner of a domain here with extensive buildings, meadows and pasture lands. He was a watchmaker-farmer and had at various times housed soldiers and horses when allied troops (Austrians, Russians and Poles) had passed through the area in the ware against Napoleon in 1815. His son Julian was also a watchmaker, but in Saint-Imier.

RETURN OF LE LOCLE

In 1864 a descendant of Jacob Calame returned to Le Locle, Ariste Calame set up house at No 7 Grande Rue, and paid 6 francs 70 in tax twice a year, on St. Martin’s and St. John’s Days, when workers received their hall yearly wages. At that time a kilo of bread cost 10 centimes and a pound of beef 24 centimeters.

To place this little anecdote on its historical context, we note in passing that Ariste Calame showed his republican sympathies in 1648- the year of the Neuchatel revolution which saw the overthrow of the representative of the King of Prussia, who was then the country’s sovereign.

After an apprenticeship as an assembler, he finally set up on his own in a small workshop at Cret-Callant which he turned into a watch trading house, with first one, then two and then five workers, whom he looked upon as friends. He sometimes worked for the other watchmakers including the celebrated Jurgensens, but above all he supplied watches to Favre-Perret.

He opened his trading house at a transitional point between two eras, at a time when the Swiss watch industry had scarcely recovered from the shock of 1876.

SHOCK OF SEVENTY-SIX

The Swiss watch industry led a peaceful life with its fine craft production. Until 1876 when the famous Philadelphia Fair opened and showed the world and the Swiss watchmakers, who were at first incredulous, the enormous progress made by the mechanized American watch industry.

The shock was followed-those who experienced the shock caused in 1974 by the quartz electronics firms can easily imagine it-by a new awareness, fuelled by a report that is still famous from the Swiss delegates to Philadelphia, who included Jacques David of Saint-Imier and Ed. Favre-Perret of Le Locle.

The need to produce in batches and mechanize watch production having been proved, the struggle to do so began. Influenced by enlightened people, mechanization was adopted which was above all suited to the interchangeability of component parts, the keyterm at the time, together with the reorganization and concentration of the companies.

Which was what the complete watch manufacturers, who lived side-by-side in the watch industry with those that only assembled watches and sometimes supplied the latter with special "ebauches" had negated to do. This with the certainly that the vertical concentration of operations under one roof within one and the same factory, contrary to the assembly of parts from outside, was "the latest thing" in modern matchmaking. It was still the case nevertheless that the essential part of the work was based on craft methods and skills, on improving watch mechanisms and making them more sophisticated, rather than on machines.

The time lost was caught up: statistics show that in 1896 in ten cantons the Swiss watch industry produced 4 million watches worth 100 million francs and employed 20000 men and 14000 women, very high figures for that time. Figures which it would be ridiculous to try and compare with those of today, when with slightly fewer people results are achieved which ate 10,20,50, or 60 times higher in value; none of the circumstances are the same.

ARISTE CALAME HANDS OVER

Industrial reorganization, integration of the mechanical manufacture of "ebauches" and component parts perhaps reinforced a primary form of concentration but brought a crisis in terms of quality in the "etablissage" systems under which production was still dispersed and lacked homogeneity.

The crisis in quality degenerated into a prices and profits crisis and followed the eight crises that had been experienced between 1837 and 1889.

It was probably because of these difficulties, which lasted until 1896, that the family firm hardly expanded, but it nevertheless provided Ariste Calame with a livelihood and security. 1896 was the year of the Paris World Fair and the revival of the industry. In 1890, when Ariste retired at the age of 61, Switzerland exported 7.3 million watches with a value of 120 million francs.

Louis-Ariste Calame was 25 years old in 1900, in the heyday of the Belle-Epoque. However, he did not have a chance to enjoy the pleasures of Paris. He had just got married in Le Locle and, with his wife as assistant, took over the company from his father.

A company where, according to the description his son Rene gave the Zodiac Congress organized for its 75^th anniversary in 1957; there was plenty of family dynamism at that time. The brother-in-law also set up at the time as manufactures of complicated watches while at the Calames, the company expanded rapidly enough to give up manufacturing as a sub-contractor for Favre-Perret and became an exporter, in particular to Japan, a market reputed to be difficult: and for what a distributor. Relations were established with no less than Hattori-Seiko, whom there is no need to introduce.

By 1903, the premises were too small and Louis-Ariste Calame and his wife moved to the rue du Marais to a large workshop where they centralized manufacturing and prepared to carry out batch production.

Like other industrialists, Louis-Ariste favored an advanced policy for those times: controlling production from A to Z and standardizing quality to the maximum. The only way to do this was to become a complete manufacture, to design, make and perfect the necessary tools and ebauches as well as taking charge of all stages of manufacturing, in order to achieve a finished product with its own individual character and be able to approach the markets with a clear brand policy.

The trade mark Zodiac-which had long been used-was soon registered. Relations with Japan improved, the orders came flowing in and the dream of building soon came true. On 1^st May 1908 the factory in which the company was to remain until 1950 was inaugurated.

Between 1908 and 1914 Zodiac manufactured its own caliber’s and movements and employed around fifty people. The pistil shot at Sarajevo brutally shook Europe and its dreams of prosperity. During the 1914-18 war the demand held up and even strengthened in certain markets. There was an ever fiercer price war and in the post-war years it was necessary to produce a lot to earn anything.

Having put too many eggs in one basket, the factory suffered badly during the crisis years of 1921 and 1922-and worse still form 1932 and 1934, but we have not got there yet. Louis-Ariste had been one of the first industrialists to work towards setting up the Federation of the Associations of Watch Manufactories- now called the FH. In November 1923 his son, Rene A. Calame, a matchmaking technician, joined him as an employee.

The younger generation was to give new impetus to the company, both commercial and technical: fashions had changed with the arrival of wristwatches, which called for new design calibers.

The 1930’s brought economic crisis and its procession of unemployed, which passed through Le Locle. Prudently, the from became a limited company. The hand times passed.

As Rene A. Calame, a new co-director at that time recalls: "From 1930 onwards, we were more and more successful thanks, it should be emphasized, to the confidence which old and new customers showed us. This is the greasiest asset that a company can have."

In 1945 business had grown to such an extent that the other brother took over as commercial director. The company was classified as one of the leading medium sized watch companies, but its premises had again become too small.

The inauguration of the new factory Bellevue 25 in Le Locle did not go unnoticed. Its bold architecture-Le Locle is not far from La Chaux-de-Fonds, the birthplace of Le Corbuster-in an eye-catching position above the town and its station, is evidence of a certain brave sprit of enterprise.

The same went in 1986 for the large extension and the inauguration of a new building adjoining the earlier one: an ultra-modern factory much commented on in the Swiss press, particularly the specialized press from which we have taken the following: In the tast five years the watch industry’s average rate of increase was 8%. During the fast four years Zodiac doubled its sales, which is equivalent to an annual growth rate of 25%.

This growth was the result of a substantial effort in terms of production and the use of modern machines, while profits achieved through rationalization were systematically reinvested in quality, for which there were 92 control stations during the course of manufacture. Zodiac level of quality, confirmed by the Watch Testing Office-the, the manufactures, bogy-was 50% higher than the Swiss average.

Products Honors List

1924 Launching of the first extra-flat pocket watch based on

The Zodiac caliber 1617.

1930 Launching of one of the first Swiss automatic watches.

1932 Invention of the Autographic power reserves indication systems, now a sought-after collector's piece.

1932 Invention of one of the first modern shock resistant systems.

1953 Launching of the Seawolf, professional sports and divers’ watch.

1965 Zodiac wins a prize at the Montres et Bijoux Exhibition in Geneva.

1967 First prize at the World Fair in Montreal

1968 Launching of the first Swiss electronic watch, Dynortron.

1968 Launching of the first fast beat, 36,000 oscillations per minute automatic watch, in parallel with other brands.

1969 Invention and launching of Astrographic watch, which caused a great sensation.

1970 Launching of the first Swiss analog quartz watch, the famous Beta 21 calibre.

1974 Patent for a shock-resistant watch case.

1977 World’s first LCD watch to obtain an official chronometer certificate.

1978 Launching of world’s slimmest quartz watch and, using traditional technology, the flattest automatic watch with calendar.

1990 New Zodiac presents its collection at the European Watch, Clock and Jewellery Fair in Basel.

Advertising support and PR activity; in 32 magazines and newspapers of worldwide importance and circulation as well as local and regional press and TV in five continents.

🐉 Zodiac Sea Dragon & Speed Dragon – Watch History Overview

🔹 Zodiac Sea Dragon

The Zodiac Sea Dragon is a heritage-inspired watch line that draws heavily from Zodiac’s design legacy of the 1960s and 1970s. Originally introduced in the mid-20th century, the Sea Dragon was created as a sport-luxury timepiece rather than a traditional dive watch.

✅ Key Highlights:

• Era: First appeared in the late 1960s to early 1970s.

• Design: Barrel-shaped or tonneau cases, minimalist dials, and retro styling.

• Movement: Originally powered by Swiss mechanical calibers; modern reissues use STP automatic movements.

• Modern Versions: Revived by Fossil Group in the 2010s, featuring sapphire crystals, bold colors, and limited editions.

• Audience: Appeals to collectors who want a mix of vintage style and modern reliability.

🧭 Purpose:

The Sea Dragon bridges the gap between sport and dress watches, offering water resistance and durability without the bulk of a dive watch.

🔹 Zodiac Speed Dragon

The Zodiac Speed Dragon is a much rarer, sportier variant inspired by racing chronographs. Unlike the Sea Dragon, which leans dressy, the Speed Dragon was built with a motorsport edge.

✅ Key Highlights:

• Era: Primarily appeared during Zodiac’s transitional era in the 1990s and early 2000s.

• Design: Often featured tachymeter bezels, chronograph complications, and bold numerals.

• Movement: Quartz or mechanical depending on the variant and time of release.

• Rarity: Less commonly seen than Sea Wolf or Sea Dragon; considered collectible due to its limited run and unique style.

🏁 Purpose:

Aimed at sports and racing enthusiasts, the Speed Dragon is Zodiac’s answer to motorsport-style watches, similar in spirit to TAG Heuer or Omega Speedmaster aesthetics.

LAST CONGRESS

At the Zodiac 90^th anniversary Congress in 1978, Pierre Calame, who had in the meantime become the managing director, recognized that the economic climate in which it

was taking place was bleeding discouragement and lassitude.

The Swiss watch industry’s 20-25 years of prosperity and its quasi-monopoly position worldwide had a perverse effect; the relative lethargy always linked to facility and success. As this period had ended and the watch industry was faced with new circumstances, innovative solutions and polices were called for.

It was with this positive attitude that Zodiac’s general policy was reviewed:

Irreproachable quality in its ultra-modern factory.

Design; a major asset at Zodiac where individualized and original models in new shapes appeared under the names Astrographie, SST 36,000, Kingline, Olympos, Sea Wolf, Cordair, Aerospace, GMT, Spacetronic, Modul-O-Quatz, etc.

Loyalty to the retail watchmaker; the high quality watch remains the preserve of the specialist.

Quality after sales services on the theme "Our responsibility begins-it does not end-with the sale of a Zodiac watch."

TRANSITION

In a period in which concentration was the universal panacea, the magic formula to solve economic problems, Zodiac decided in favour of independence and relying on its own resources in order to make the most of its technical and commercial ability.

In concluding his very wide-ranging speech to this last Zodiac Congress, Pierre Calame particularly stressed that the battle looked as if it would be very tough.

"A very hard process of natural selection is taking place in our industry and the smallest mistake in this struggle may be fatal. We see clearly that 80% of our success will come from the quality of the effort made by you, our customers."

The importance of the front line of sales can never be overemphasized. A blow on this front put Zodiac in a difficult position and forced it to ask for a financial arrangement.

Paul Castella, head of the world famous Dixi group of Le Locle brought and saved the brand. Next, an experiment in "managing" the brand, antrusted to specialists in watch marketing, failed to bear the hoped-for-fruit. It should be stressed that this was during one of the worst periods of the economic crisis.

In 1982, it’s centenary year, Zodiac was virtually merged with Zenith. The Bellevue buildings were henceforth to be part of the Dixi machine factory.

NEW DEPARTURE

The production of Zodiac watches is currently entrusted to the Zenith Watch Company’s factory in Le Locle, which gives us leave to claim that the high quality that was the pride of the Calame dynasty has been 100% preserved.

Design and innovation, marketing, sales, and exports are handled at the headquarters of the new Zodiac SA in Neuchatel.

The new Zodiac is in the hand of Willy Gad Monnier, the former managing director of a large watch manufacturer, whose experience in sports watches-a specialty of the brand-is recognized in the entire world’s markets.

While we are at it and as a drawing or photo is worth ten thousand words, let’s have a look straightway at the new collection.

Willy Gad Monnier, a major shareholder and managing director of the new Zodiac, joined the watch industry when he finished his education. He was head of a company, which went through all the postwar periods of matchmaking. He has acquired considerable experience, particularly in terms of management and above all, traveling with a collection case, in markets internationally.

His objective is to secure a place for Zodiac and its traditional quality, not only through production but also by respecting the loyalty built up in the distribution channels leading to the watch retailers.

In terms of the product, there will be a certain degree of specialization in sports and so-called "technical" watches.

From the drawing board to the wrist of the consumer, the marketing policy is designed to foster a long term relationship of confidence and trust with customers, says Willy Gad Monnier.

The fact of having inherited a prestigious past will not prevent Zodiac from building the future with the same dynamism as young companies with no history behind them.

Zodiac has used the world of sport as the focal point of its collection, in line with the tastes and expectations of a public that is young, dynamic, and in a state of constant movement. All the models are made in stainless steel with screw-in crown and screw back and are water restraint to 200 meters. The advertising and PR message had sport at its most daring as its theme, and Zodiac has enlisted the help of a professional diver, the first Swiss woman guide, and a canoeist-explorer.

The Zodiac point is a symbol of quality and a guarantee of the ultimate precision.

The 1990 collection is divided into three groups, based on the idea of the point, as follows:

Red Point Collection

Silver Point Collection

Gold Point Collection

*The information in this article was from a piece of Zodiac literature published in 1990.

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