Type XX, Type 20 & Type 21 Military Chronographs – Complete Collector & History Guide

The Type 20, Type 21, and Type XX pilot chronograph watches are among the most important French military and aviation timepieces ever made. Born from strict post-war specifications for the French Air Force and Navy, they combine flyback functionality, legibility, and rugged construction with a design language that has become a benchmark for pilot’s chronographs.

At Experts Watches, we specialize in vintage and luxury watches, including historic military chronograph models. From time to time, we offer carefully curated Type 20, Type 21, and Type XX pieces, and we also buy vintage watches directly from collectors. If you own one of these watches or are looking for one, reach us via our Contact Us page.

✈️ 1. Overview: What are Type 20, Type 21, and Type XX chronographs?

The term Type 20 refers to a French military specification for pilot chronograph watches issued after World War II. These watches were supplied to the French Air Force, the Aéronavale (Navy aviation), and test-flight centers. The later Type 21 specification followed, updating contracts and suppliers while keeping the same core concept: a robust, flyback pilot’s chronograph built to strict standards.

Type XX is the name Breguet gave to its civilian and later luxury versions of the Type 20 concept. While Type 20 and Type 21 were official military specifications, Type XX became the commercial face of the design, evolving into a full line of Breguet aviation chronograph watches.

Today, collectors use “Type 20,” “Type 21,” and “Type XX” as shorthand for a family of French pilot chronographs with flyback function, black dials, bold numerals, and rotating bezels — whether they were issued to pilots or sold to civilians.

Breguet Type 20 for the French Air Force with two registers and rotating bezel, circa 1955. (Courtesy: Sotheby’s)

✈️ 2. French military specifications and the birth of the Type 20

In the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defense needed a standardized pilot’s chronograph for navigation, timing flight legs, and coordinating missions. Instead of commissioning a single brand, the Ministry issued a technical specification known as Type 20. Any manufacturer that could meet the requirements could bid for contracts.

While the original documents are not fully preserved, research and surviving examples show that Type 20 watches were expected to offer:

• Flyback chronograph (retour en vol) — allowing the chronograph to be reset and restarted with a single push, ideal for timing consecutive waypoints.
• Black dial with high-contrast Arabic numerals and luminous material for low-light legibility.
• Two sub-registers — usually small seconds and a 30-minute counter.
• Bi-directional rotating bezel with a marker or scale for elapsed time.
• Accuracy within a tight daily rate and a minimum power reserve (around 35 hours).
• Durability — the movement had to withstand hundreds of chronograph start/stop/reset cycles without failure.

The Type 21 specification followed later, updating contracts and sometimes movements, but the underlying idea remained the same: a reliable, flyback pilot’s chronograph for professional use.

Breguet Type 20 delivered to the French military in 1957. (Courtesy: Antiquorum)

✈️ 3. Why multiple brands and movements were used

Unlike many modern military contracts, the French Type 20 and Type 21 specifications were not tied to a single brand or a single movement. The government defined the performance and functional requirements, then allowed several manufacturers to supply watches that met those standards.

As a result, brands such as Breguet, Dodane, Auricoste, Airain, and Vixa all produced Type 20 watches. Some brands assembled their own watches, while others relied on contract manufacturers like Mathey-Tissot to build the chronographs to specification.

On the movement side, different Swiss chronograph calibers were used over time, as long as they could be configured with a flyback function and meet the accuracy and durability requirements. You will encounter Valjoux-based flyback movements, Lemania calibers, and other Swiss chronograph ébauches adapted for the task.

For collectors, this diversity means that two authentic Type 20 chronographs can share the same overall look but differ in movement architecture, case details, and dial signatures. Understanding the brand, contract, and movement context is a big part of the appeal.

Vixa Type 20 movement — based on Hanhart architecture, reflecting the post-war transfer of German flieger chronograph technology to France.

⚙️ Valjoux Movements Used in Type 20 & Type 21 Chronographs

Although the Type 20 and Type 21 specifications did not mandate a specific movement, the most historically important calibers came from Valjoux. These Swiss column-wheel chronograph movements were robust, reliable, and adaptable to the flyback function required by the French military. Over the years, several Valjoux families powered Type 20 and Type 21 watches, each with its own characteristics and production history.

Valjoux 222 – The Classic Type 20 Movement

The most recognized Type 20 movement is the Valjoux 222, a flyback-equipped evolution of the long-running Valjoux 22. Used extensively by both Breguet and Dodane in their military-issued Type 20 chronographs, it is a sturdy, traditional column-wheel movement. Spare parts have become increasingly difficult to source due to age and limited production.

Valjoux 225 – Three-Register Flyback

The Valjoux 225 is essentially a Valjoux 222 with an added 12-hour totalizer, creating a three-register layout. It retains the flyback function and column-wheel architecture. While less common than the 222, it appears in certain later Type 20-style chronographs.

Valjoux 231 – Rare Dodane Type 21 Movement

The Valjoux 231 is one of the rarest movements associated with the Type 21. Produced in very small numbers — around 200 pieces — it was used by Dodane. While visually similar to the Valjoux 235, the exact technical differences remain unclear, with speculation around flyback lever design or beat rate variations.

Valjoux 235 – Flyback Version of the Valjoux 23

The Valjoux 235 is a flyback-equipped evolution of the famous Valjoux 23. Dodane used this movement in its Type 21 chronographs, and according to Ébauches SA archives, approximately 1,580 units were produced.

Valjoux 720 – Unconfirmed

The Valjoux 720 is sometimes mentioned in connection with Dodane Type 21 production, but there is no conclusive evidence that it was ever used in issued military watches. Its existence in the Type 21 lineage remains unverified.

Valjoux 725 – Flyback Version of the Valjoux 72 Family

The Valjoux 725 is the flyback variant of the legendary Valjoux 72 family. Produced in the early 1970s, it represents one of the last mechanical flyback chronograph movements made before the Quartz Crisis. Used in later Type 20-style watches, including second-generation Breguet models, some of which featured a 15-minute counter instead of the standard 30-minute register.

Valjoux 725 & Valjoux 235 — the two most important Valjoux calibers used in Type 20 and Type 21 military chronographs.

✈️ 4. Key brands and their Type 20 / Type 21 / Type XX watches

Below is a brand-by-brand overview of the most important names associated with Type 20, Type 21, and Type XX chronograph watches — a map of how the specification was interpreted and evolved across different suppliers.

4.1 Breguet – From military Type 20 to luxury Type XX

Breguet is the most famous name in the Type 20 story. In the 1950s and 1960s, Breguet supplied Type 20 watches to the French Air Force, Aéronavale, and test-flight centers. Many of these early pieces had sterile dials (no brand name), with “Type 20” and contract markings engraved on the caseback.

Breguet later developed civilian versions, which evolved into the Type XX line. These watches kept the flyback function and aviation design but were sold to private customers. Over time, Breguet expanded the family with the Type XXI and Type XXII, adding features like central minutes, date displays, and higher-frequency movements.

A rare Breguet Type 20 military chronograph produced in 1960 for the Aéronautique Navale. (Courtesy: Sotheby’s)

The caseback of the Type 20 Aéronautique Navale — inscriptions “FG 9 12 07” and “FG 17 2 76” indicate scheduled maintenance dates (“FG” = Fin de Garantie, “end of warranty”). (Courtesy: Sotheby’s)

4.2 Dodane – Type 20 and Type 21 specialist

Dodane is closely associated with both Type 20 and Type 21 contracts. The brand supplied pilot chronographs to the French military and later became a reference name for Type 21 watches. Dodane models typically feature bold numerals, clear dials, and rotating bezels designed for cockpit use. Modern Dodane reissues continue this tradition.

1950s Dodane Type 21 Military Chronograph — one of the most important Type 21 suppliers to the French military.

4.3 Auricoste – Historic supplier with modern reissues

Auricoste was an official supplier of Type 20 chronograph watches to the French military. Its pieces were issued to both Air Force and naval units, known for their clean, functional dials and robust cases. Today, Auricoste offers modern Type 20-inspired watches that pay tribute to its military heritage.

J. Auricoste Type 20 Military Chronograph — an official French military supplier with a strong collector following.

4.4 Airain – Classic French Type 20

Airain is another historic Type 20 supplier. Vintage Airain Type 20 watches follow the classic formula: black dial, two registers, flyback function, and a rotating bezel. Many were issued to military units, and surviving examples with original dials and engravings are highly collectible. The revived Airain brand now produces faithful Type 20 reissues.

Airain Type XX Flyback Chronograph — a faithful reissue of the classic French military pilot’s chronograph.

4.5 Vixa – Post-war link to German flieger chronographs

Vixa occupies a special place in the Type 20 story. After World War II, equipment and know-how from German manufacturer Hanhart were transferred to France, and Vixa used this foundation to produce early Type 20 chronograph watches for the French military. These Vixa Type 20 models are relatively scarce and are prized by collectors who appreciate the direct connection between German flieger chronographs and French Type 20 specifications.

Vixa Type 20 Chronograph — dial and caseback. One of the rarest and most historically significant Type 20 references, with direct lineage to German flieger chronograph technology.

4.6 Mathey-Tissot – Contract manufacturer behind the scenes

Mathey-Tissot played a crucial role as a contract manufacturer, assembling Type 20 chronographs for brands such as Breguet. In many cases, the watches were delivered under the primary brand’s name, but the production work was handled by Mathey-Tissot. For collectors, this adds another layer of nuance: some Breguet Type 20 watches have a Mathey-Tissot production background, which can be documented through case and movement details.

1965 Mathey-Tissot Type 20 Chronograph — sold at auction by Antiquorum. An important reference for understanding the contract manufacturing behind the Type 20 program.

4.7 Other related and inspired brands

Beyond the core military suppliers, several brands have produced Type 20-style or Type XX-inspired watches:

• Seliva Chronofixe Type 20
• Yema — French brand with aviation and military-inspired chronograph designs.
• Baltic — Modern microbrand offering vintage-inspired chronographs with clear Type 20 DNA.
• Other niche makers producing limited-run Type 20-style pilot watches.

Seliva Chronofixe Type 20 — one of the lesser-known but historically authentic Type 20 suppliers.

✈️ 5. Modern reissues and current production

Today, several brands keep the Type 20 / Type 21 spirit alive with modern reissues and reinterpretations. The most prominent is Breguet, whose current Type XX and Type XXI lines reinterpret the original design with updated cases, movements, and finishing. Recent releases have refined the proportions, improved legibility, and introduced new dial variants while staying faithful to the core aviation DNA.

Breguet Type XX — the modern reissue of the legendary French military pilot’s chronograph, now in luxury form.

Dodane, Auricoste, and Airain also offer modern Type 20 / Type 21-style watches, often with flyback functions and layouts that closely echo their historic military pieces. For collectors who want the look and feel of a Type 20 without the service complexity of a mid-century movement, these modern reissues are an attractive option.

Mathey-Tissot x Massena LAB Type XX Flyback Chronograph and Type XX Tribute Chronograph — modern reissues with authentic Type 20 DNA.

✈️ 6. Design traits and how to recognize a true Type 20 / Type 21

While there are variations between brands and generations, most authentic Type 20 and Type 21 chronograph watches share a core set of design traits:

• Black dial with luminous Arabic numerals.
• Two sub-registers — small seconds and a 30-minute counter (some later or civilian models add a third register).
• Bi-directional rotating bezel with a marker or scale for elapsed time.
• Flyback chronograph function.
• Case size typically around 38mm, with pump pushers and a screw-back or snap-back case.
• Military engravings or “Type 20 / Type 21” markings on the caseback for issued pieces.

Civilian Type XX models and modern reissues may introduce date windows, different bezel styles, or three-register layouts, but the core DNA remains: a functional pilot’s chronograph designed for real use in the cockpit.

Second generation Breguet Type 20 featuring a larger case with three registers, circa 1975. A few two-register examples were also produced in this generation.

✈️ 7. Collectability and value drivers

Type 20, Type 21, and Type XX chronograph vintage watches have become highly collectible, with strong interest from both military watch enthusiasts and broader collectors. Key value drivers include:

• Brand and contract — Breguet military pieces, early Vixa, and documented Dodane or Auricoste contracts are especially sought after.
• Military provenance — Caseback engravings, unit markings, and “FG” (fin de garantie) service stamps add significant interest.
• Original dial and hands — Untouched dials with original lume are preferred over refinished examples.
• Correct bezel and case details — Period-correct bezels, crowns, and pushers matter for serious collectors.
• Movement condition — A properly serviced flyback chronograph movement is essential.
• Documentation — Archive extracts, service records, and provenance support long-term value.

As with other important vintage military watches from Omega, Rolex, Longines, Zenith, and Heuer, condition and originality are critical. A well-preserved Type 20 or Type 21 can be a cornerstone of a serious collection.

A rare “civilian” Type 20 model with three counters and bi-directional rotating bezel with 0–60 marks. (Courtesy: Antiquorum)

Breguet Type 20 “Big Eye” — produced for CEV in 1962 with rotating metal bezel and oversized 30-minute sub-dial with propeller hand. (Courtesy: Phillips Watches)

Girard-Perregaux and Breguet Type 20 Chronographs — illustrating the breadth of the Type 20 family across different brands and references.

✈️ 8. Servicing, buying, and selling with Experts Watches

Servicing a vintage Type 20, Type 21, or Type XX is not the same as servicing a modern automatic watch. These are specialized flyback chronograph movements with historically important components and specific tolerances.

At Experts Watches, our approach to vintage military chronographs focuses on:

• Preserving originality — We avoid unnecessary replacement of dials, hands, and bezels.
• Respecting the movement — Whether the watch uses a Valjoux, Lemania, or other Swiss chronograph caliber, we treat it as a historical mechanism.
• Clear documentation — We describe what has been done, what remains original, and what parts (if any) have been replaced.

We also buy watches. If you have a Type 20, Type 21, Type XX, or other important vintage watch you are considering selling, reach out through our Contact Us page for evaluation.

J. Auricoste Type 20 Military Chronograph — dial and caseback, from our own inventory. Every vintage military chronograph we offer is carefully evaluated for originality and mechanical condition.

❓ FAQ: Type 20, Type 21 & Type XX Chronographs

Every vintage chronograph at Experts Watches is covered by our Certified Pre-Owned Program — inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house.