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Handmade crocodile leather watch straps — available in tapered and straight profiles. Browse our strap collection.
Choosing the right watch strap comes down to two measurements: your lug width and your wrist circumference. Get those right and any strap will fit perfectly. This guide covers everything you need — from measuring your watch to selecting the correct strap length, spring bar size, and material for your vintage or luxury timepiece.
The lug width is the inner gap between the two lugs on your watch case — the space where the strap end fits and the spring bar sits. It is always measured in millimeters and is the single most important number when ordering any strap or bracelet.
🖨️ Download our free printable Lug Width Sizing Tool — print at 100% scale and place your watch lug end directly over it to read the measurement.
Historically, many vintage Swiss watches followed an informal rule: the strap width was approximately half the case diameter. While not universal, it remains a useful starting point for vintage pieces.
| Case Diameter | Typical Lug Width |
|---|---|
| 34mm – 36mm | 18mm |
| 38mm – 40mm | 19mm – 20mm |
| 42mm – 44mm | 21mm – 22mm |
Use this table as a quick reference. Always confirm by measuring your specific reference, as lug widths can vary by production year and model variant.
| Brand | Common Models | Lug Width |
|---|---|---|
| Rolex | Datejust, Submariner, GMT-Master | 20mm |
| Rolex | 36mm models (vintage) | 19mm |
| Rolex | Cellini, Air-King (vintage) | 18mm – 19mm |
| Omega | Seamaster 300, Geneve, Constellation | 18mm – 20mm |
| Omega | Speedmaster Professional (vintage) | 19mm |
| Omega | 34mm – 35mm models | 17mm – 18mm* |
| Breitling | Navitimer (vintage) | 22mm |
| Breitling | Chronomat, SuperOcean | 20mm – 22mm |
| Heuer / TAG Heuer | Carrera, Autavia, Monaco (vintage) | 18mm – 20mm |
| Longines | Heritage, Conquest (vintage) | 18mm – 20mm |
| Tudor | Submariner, Black Bay | 20mm – 22mm |
| IWC | Pilot’s Watch, Big Pilot, Portugieser | 20mm – 22mm |
| Jaeger-LeCoultre | Reverso, Master Control | 18mm – 20mm |
| Doxa | SUB 300, SUB 300T | 20mm |
| Seiko | SKX, Prospex, Presage | 20mm – 22mm |
*Omega 34mm – 35mm models technically use 17mm or 17.5mm, but an 18mm strap fits in most cases as the 0.5mm difference is minimal.
Wrap a flexible tape measure or strip of paper around your wrist just below the wrist bone — where you normally wear a watch. Note the measurement in millimeters. Most straps are listed as two numbers (e.g. 75mm / 120mm) — the short end sits on the inside of your wrist, the long end wraps around and passes through the buckle.
| Wrist Circumference | Recommended Strap Length | Configuration |
|---|---|---|
| Under 160mm | 65mm / 105mm | Short |
| 160mm – 185mm | 75mm / 120mm | Standard |
| 185mm+ | 80mm / 130mm | Long |
Spring bars are the small cylindrical pins that secure the strap to the watch lugs. The spring bar diameter must match the lug hole, and the spring bar length must match the lug width. Always use the correct size — an undersized spring bar can fail and cause the watch to fall from the wrist.
| Lug Width | Spring Bar Length Needed |
|---|---|
| 16mm | 16mm spring bar |
| 18mm | 18mm spring bar |
| 19mm | 19mm spring bar |
| 20mm | 20mm spring bar |
| 22mm | 22mm spring bar |
The right strap material depends on your watch style, how you wear it, and whether water resistance matters.
Measure the inner gap between the two lugs at the point where the spring bar sits, using a digital caliper or millimeter ruler. Do not measure the outer width of the lug tips. Use our free printable lug width tool if you don’t have a caliper.
Most vintage Rolex watches use a 20mm lug width. Some models such as the 36mm Datejust and certain Air-King references use 19mm. Always verify by measuring your specific reference.
The vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional uses a 19mm lug width. A tapered strap (19mm → 16mm) with a 16mm buckle is the period-correct choice.
Measure your wrist circumference in millimeters. Under 160mm: use 65/105mm (short). 160–185mm: use 75/120mm (standard). Over 185mm: use 80/130mm (long). When in doubt, go longer.
The spring bar length must match your lug width exactly. A 20mm lug width requires a 20mm spring bar. Diameter also matters — most vintage dress watches use 1.5mm diameter bars, while sport and dive watches often use 1.8mm or 2.0mm.
Yes — we carry handmade crocodile leather straps, rubber straps, NATO straps, mesh bracelets, and more. Browse our full strap collection.
📚 Related Guides at Experts Watches:
• Watch Strap & Bracelet Buying Guide — full step-by-step guide to lug width, taper, buckle sizing, and strap types.
• Rolex Serial Number Lookup — date your Rolex by serial number.
• Tudor Serial Number Lookup — date your Tudor by serial number.
• Watch Case & Bracelet Metal Codes Guide — decode Swiss hallmark and metal codes.
• Vintage Watch Care & Maintenance Guide — how to care for your mechanical watch.
• Certified Pre-Owned Program — every watch inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house.
• Sell or Trade Your Watch — fair appraisals from our expert team.
All information on this page is provided for educational and collector reference purposes only.
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