Guide To Zenith And Movado Super Sub Sea Vintage Watch
Apr 07, 2023
The Zenith and Movado Super Sub Sea are two of the most underrated vintage diving watches of the 1960s. Born from a unique collaboration between two great Swiss houses — and powered by one of the finest manually wound chronograph movements ever made — these watches deserve far more attention than they typically receive. This guide covers their history, the movement, the key references, and what to look for when buying.
In This Guide
- The Movado-Zenith-Mondia Holding — A Brief History
- Zenith Super Sub Sea — The Watch
- Zenith Caliber 146 HP — The Movement
- Movado Super Sub Sea 500
- What to Look for When Buying
- Frequently Asked Questions
The Movado-Zenith-Mondia Holding — A Brief History
Movado-Zenith-Mondia Holding Horloger SA was a federation of Swiss watch manufacturers active in the 1960s and 1970s, bringing together three well-known luxury watch brands under one umbrella. This collaboration had a direct impact on the watches produced by both Zenith and Movado during this period — most notably in the shared use of movements and case designs across the Super Sub Sea line.
Zenith was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland. Favre-Jacot revolutionized the industry by creating a workshop where all watchmaking processes were carried out under one roof — a radical concept at the time. Zenith became known for precision timekeeping and exceptional craftsmanship, and in 1960 acquired Martel Watch Company S.A., which developed and produced the caliber 146 HP movement family.
Movado was founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1881 and became synonymous with modern, sophisticated design. During the Movado-Zenith-Mondia period, Movado used Zenith-sourced movements in several of its sport and diving references, including the Super Sub Sea 500.
Zenith Super Sub Sea — The Watch
The Zenith Super Sub Sea was introduced in the 1960s and quickly gained a following among divers and watch enthusiasts. The collection includes both time-only and chronograph references — the most celebrated being the A3736 (chronograph) and the A3635 (time-only). Both feature a compressor case with an internal rotating bezel, a design that provides excellent water resistance and a distinctive, purposeful aesthetic.
These watches are more than mere timepieces — they are artifacts of the golden age of Swiss watchmaking, an era that defined the mechanical watch industry. The A3736 chronograph in particular is a personal favorite: the combination of the compressor case, the 146 HP movement, and the clean dial layout is difficult to beat at any price point in the vintage market.
Zenith Caliber 146 HP — The Movement
The Zenith Caliber 146 HP is a legendary piece of horology. Developed by Martel Watch Company (acquired by Zenith in 1960), it was first introduced in the 1960s and became the movement of choice for Zenith and Movado manually wound chronographs throughout the decade.
Key specifications of the Caliber 146 HP:
- Type: Manual-wind chronograph
- Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
- Jewels: 17
- Power reserve: ~38 hours
- Escapement: High-precision lever escapement designed to reduce friction
- Shock protection: Yes
Zenith also produced the related Caliber 146 DP — a two-register version of the same base movement. Both calibers were used in the majority of Zenith-Movado manually wound chronographs until the introduction of the El Primero in 1969 — the famous Caliber 3019, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement.
The 146 HP ranks among the finest manually wound chronograph movements of its era — alongside the Valjoux 72, Valjoux 88, and Omega Caliber 321 — and is a significant part of what makes the Super Sub Sea so collectible today.
Movado Super Sub Sea 500
At first glance, the Movado Super Sub Sea 500 could easily be mistaken for the Zenith Super Sub Sea reference A277 — the two watches are nearly identical in appearance. This is no coincidence: both were manufactured at the end of the 1960s when the two brands worked closely together under the Movado-Zenith-Mondia holding.
As a result, the Movado Super Sub Sea 500 houses the same Zenith Caliber 146 HP chronograph movement from a Martel ébauche. It comes with a large compressor case whose water resistance justifies the “Super Sub Sea” name. At 41mm, it is very wearable on the wrist. The reverse panda dial and external bezel are highly legible — exactly what a professional diving chronograph demands. This is the kind of watch that scores equally on functionality and aesthetics.
What to Look for When Buying
Both the Zenith and Movado Super Sub Sea are genuine collector’s pieces, and buying one requires the same due diligence as any serious vintage watch purchase:
- Dial originality: The dial should be original and unrestored. Look for consistent aging and intact printing. A refinished dial significantly reduces value.
- Bezel and insert: The internal rotating bezel should operate correctly. Check for original markings and appropriate aging.
- Case condition: The compressor case should retain its original proportions. Avoid heavily polished examples — sharp edges and original finishing are signs of a well-preserved piece.
- Movement: The Caliber 146 HP should run and keep reasonable time. Ask whether it has been recently serviced. At Experts Watches, every piece is timed and inspected before sale.
- Reference matching: Confirm the reference number on the case back matches the dial configuration. Zenith A3736 should have the chronograph layout; A3635 is the time-only version.
- Provenance: Original box and papers are rare for these references but add significant value when present.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Zenith Super Sub Sea A3736?
The Zenith Super Sub Sea A3736 is a vintage diving chronograph produced in the 1960s, powered by the manually wound Caliber 146 HP. It features a compressor case with an internal rotating bezel and is one of the most collectible Zenith references from the era.
What movement is in the Movado Super Sub Sea 500?
The Movado Super Sub Sea 500 uses the Zenith Caliber 146 HP — a manually wound chronograph movement developed from a Martel ébauche. This is the same movement found in the Zenith Super Sub Sea A3736, reflecting the close collaboration between the two brands during the Movado-Zenith-Mondia holding period.
How does the Zenith Super Sub Sea compare to the Rolex Submariner?
The Zenith Super Sub Sea is a more specialized piece — particularly the chronograph version — and is significantly rarer than the Rolex Submariner. It offers a compelling combination of diving functionality and chronograph capability that the Submariner does not. For collectors who appreciate mechanical complexity and rarity, the Super Sub Sea is an exceptional alternative.
What is the Zenith Caliber 146 HP?
The Zenith Caliber 146 HP is a manually wound chronograph movement developed by Martel Watch Company (acquired by Zenith in 1960). It runs at 18,000 vph, has 17 jewels, and offers approximately 38 hours of power reserve. It was used in Zenith and Movado chronographs throughout the 1960s and is considered one of the finest manually wound chronograph movements of its era.
Where can I buy a Zenith or Movado Super Sub Sea?
At Experts Watches, we specialize in certified pre-owned vintage diving watches and chronographs. Every piece is inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house. Contact us — we often have pieces not yet listed online.
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