1974 Serviced Vintage Wakmann Triple Calendar Date Chronograph Valjoux 730 72c

Let’s go back to the 1960s and 70s. In the USA, the Government decided to raise a tax on luxury goods such as high-end watches. This covered a span of 3 decades between the 1940’s and the 1970’s.

In order to successfully sidestep a tax that would otherwise create a steep increase in the price of luxury watches, high end firms had to look at the letter, not the spirit of the law.

Breitling, a firm known for fashion, luxury and sports timepieces rivaling the quality offerings of firms such as Rolex, Philippe Patek  et. al., made the bold and straight interpretation of the import law work in their favor. Another example was Wittnauer, which imported Longines watches into the United States.  Purchasing the right to use the name of Wakmann, securing a facility in New York and using their staff to manage its operation, Breitling did not have to pay a tariff on imported luxury watches.  

Instead, they shipped separate elements of their watches, such a movements and hands separate from dials and cases and put them together in New York.   

American domestic customers of Breitling were sent brochures informing them of the company’s decision to expand their watch production in their new New York facility and were shown many of the identical (albeit with a different name on the dial) pieces offered in their international catalogues.  

So, this is a (Breitling) Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph. A triple date? A good question because the name might suggest that that the watch shows three different dates or some other information. Actually, the watch is a standard, tri-compax layout chronograph with some fairly serious modifications to the movement to give you date information. And when it comes to date information, this is where the “triple” comes in as the watch shows the day, date and month. The day and month are shown within little windows below 12:00 while the date is indicated on the outer edge of the dial with the “crescent moon” shaped hand. The movement employed and how to set all these things are something I’ll cover shortly.

It shares the same case as the more prevalent, and well-known, Wakmann Triple Dates as well as Gigandet and even Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Gigandet actually made the watches and branded them for these other marques. Remember, the late 1960’s and 1970’s were wild and wooly times for Swiss watch companies and the sharing we so often discuss was running rampant.

It has a well-preserved gold-plated original case measuring a 39mm. across; 13.5mm. thick including the crystal. The silver dial is original and with only small marks showing its age. The original gold colored with lots of characters with chips and plating loss, baton hands are both distinctive and wide; with matching baton dial markers and black chrono hand. Functions include day/date/month/30 minute and 12-hour counters along with standard hours/minutes. Notice the polished pushers and large steel winding crown. The highly regarded and finely gilded Valjoux 730 which is the updated version of famous Valjoux 72C, manual winding movement is in good overall condition and Fully Serviced and Overhauled. Come with a Service Warranty!

Gold version of the watch is rarer. So, like this one, make sure you buy a very good example, because you may not be able to afford restoring a lesser one.

This caliber was also called, Full calendar watches are also known as Datora, Cato, Compax, Triple Date. Powered by the famous base caliber Valjoux 72 movement, used by the Heuer Autavia, Rolex Daytona, etc.

A cousin of the celebrated Valjoux 72,  and caliber Valjoux 72C, the caliber Valjoux 730 is updated version and it is not your average manual-wind chronograph movement. It is one of the most complicated movement of the time, which for a guy like me that loves complications makes a great watch to have in my hands. Not only does it offer a great chronograph that Valjoux 72 offers, plus it offers triple calendar complications, which explains the success that it enjoyed with so many brands, including Mathey-Tissot, Doxa and Baume & Mercier. And the layout of all these complications is quite irresistible, almost offering the same configuration as a Patek Philippe & Rolex. The Doxa is a vintage watch that offers a lot, and with a lot of elegance. 

Valjoux 72C/730 usage instruction: Working and setting : Please don’t use the pushers to work the day, month and date indicators between 8 PM and 2 AM or to work the date indicators between 10 AM and 2 PM when the automatic jumping takes place. The pushers on the side, top left press changes month, to change the day use the crown (winding it), bottom pusher on the left changed date.

This is a beauty. It is very rare to find a watch this old and untouched. Defiantly a collector watch. Please look at all the pictures, as they are part of the description. The watch is working and Serviced. This is a highly collectible watch. Very few left with this rare movement. Sure, to increase in value overtime, and a great addition to your collection. The condition of the watch is the same as it appears in the photos.   The watch is working and is part of our new Certified Pre-Owned CPO Program.  Contact me if you have any questions first.