1974 Serviced Vintage Wakmann Triple Calendar Date Chronograph Valjoux 730 72c
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Let’s go back to the 1960s and 70s. In the USA, the Government decided to raise a tax on luxury goods such as high-end watches. This covered a span of 3 decades between the 1940’s and the 1970’s.
In order to successfully sidestep a tax that would otherwise create a steep increase in the price of luxury watches, high end firms had to look at the letter, not the spirit of the law.
Breitling, a firm known for fashion, luxury and sports timepieces rivaling the quality offerings of firms such as Rolex, Philippe Patek et. al., made the bold and straight interpretation of the import law work in their favor. Another example was Wittnauer, which imported Longines watches into the United States. Purchasing the right to use the name of Wakmann, securing a facility in New York and using their staff to manage its operation, Breitling did not have to pay a tariff on imported luxury watches.
Instead, they shipped separate elements of their watches, such a movements and hands separate from dials and cases and put them together in New York.
American domestic customers of Breitling were sent brochures informing them of the company’s decision to expand their watch production in their new New York facility and were shown many of the identical (albeit with a different name on the dial) pieces offered in their international catalogues.
So, this is a (Breitling) Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph. A triple date? A good question because the name might suggest that that the watch shows three different dates or some other information. Actually, the watch is a standard, tri-compax layout chronograph with some fairly serious modifications to the movement to give you date information. And when it comes to date information, this is where the “triple” comes in as the watch shows the day, date and month. The day and month are shown within little windows below 12:00 while the date is indicated on the outer edge of the dial with the “crescent moon” shaped hand. The movement employed and how to set all these things are something I’ll cover shortly.
It shares the same case as the more prevalent, and well-known, Wakmann Triple Dates as well as Gigandet and even Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Gigandet actually made the watches and branded them for these other marques. Remember, the late 1960’s and 1970’s were wild and wooly times for Swiss watch companies and the sharing we so often discuss was running rampant.
It has a well-preserved gold-plated original case measuring a 39mm. across; 13.5mm. thick including the crystal. The silver dial is original and with only small marks showing its age. The original gold colored with lots of characters with chips and plating loss, baton hands are both distinctive and wide; with matching baton dial markers and black chrono hand. Functions include day/date/month/30 minute and 12-hour counters along with standard hours/minutes. Notice the polished pushers and large steel winding crown. The highly regarded and finely gilded Valjoux 730 which is the updated version of famous Valjoux 72C, manual winding movement is in good overall condition and Fully Serviced and Overhauled. Come with a Service Warranty!
Gold version of the watch is rarer. So, like this one, make sure you buy a very good example, because you may not be able to afford restoring a lesser one.
This caliber was also called, Full calendar watches are also known as Datora, Cato, Compax, Triple Date. Powered by the famous base caliber Valjoux 72 movement, used by the Heuer Autavia, Rolex Daytona, etc.
A cousin of the celebrated Valjoux 72, and caliber Valjoux 72C, the caliber Valjoux 730 is updated version and it is not your average manual-wind chronograph movement. It is one of the most complicated movement of the time, which for a guy like me that loves complications makes a great watch to have in my hands. Not only does it offer a great chronograph that Valjoux 72 offers, plus it offers triple calendar complications, which explains the success that it enjoyed with so many brands, including Mathey-Tissot, Doxa and Baume & Mercier. And the layout of all these complications is quite irresistible, almost offering the same configuration as a Patek Philippe & Rolex. The Doxa is a vintage watch that offers a lot, and with a lot of elegance.
Valjoux 72C/730 usage instruction: Working and setting : Please don’t use the pushers to work the day, month and date indicators between 8 PM and 2 AM or to work the date indicators between 10 AM and 2 PM when the automatic jumping takes place. The pushers on the side, top left press changes month, to change the day use the crown (winding it), bottom pusher on the left changed date.
This is a beauty. It is very rare to find a watch this old and untouched. Defiantly a collector watch. Please look at all the pictures, as they are part of the description. The watch is working and Serviced. This is a highly collectible watch. Very few left with this rare movement. Sure, to increase in value overtime, and a great addition to your collection. The condition of the watch is the same as it appears in the photos. The watch is working and is part of our new Certified Pre-Owned CPO Program. Contact me if you have any questions first.
SPECIFICATION |
|
Case |
Vintage Gold-plated Case and Steel Case Back. The case is showing its age, characters, and vintage look with loss of plating especially on the lugs and back area. |
Case Size |
39,25 mm without the crown and 45,00 Lug to Lug |
Case Back |
Stainless steel cover signed, with Screw Back. Please note case back in most cases is not fully tighten. |
Crown |
Signed, Breitling (not sure if it is original as they shared parts or changed) |
Crystal |
Acrylic Some Scratches |
Bezel: |
None. |
Dial: |
This has be beautiful silver sunburst center and white/ivory chronograph 3 registers, and outer date circle. Luminous hands & indices dial lum is gone on the indices, Swiss made Mark, with the seconds Hand and date at 3 O'clock. Shows light patina Please see picture for more detail. |
Complication |
Seconds, Date, Chronograph, Day, Month. |
Movement |
Manual-winding Valjoux 730 updated version of Valjoux 72c |
Movement Notes |
Just inspected and in great shape. Fully Serviced and Overhauled. Come with a Service Warranty! Please see pictures and as some old movements don't have a very clear marking. Movement is running. Keeps great time see below time testing. |
Strap |
Genuine Leather, Lug Size: 20mm Please see picture. |
Box |
Come with Beautiful Vintage Style Box. Or Experts Watches Pouch |
Reference # |
1315.01.74 |
Made in |
Switzerland |
Water Resistance |
No. Please pressure test before water use. |
Service Level |
1 (Please see Tab below for details) |
Timing Test ** |
13 s/day In-House Time Test Results (See Service Level Tab)** |
Certified Pre-Owned |
Passed 25-point inspection. Please see tab below for details. |
Warranty |
3-Month Service Warranty (Please see Tab below for details) |
Notes: |
All watch functions tested and operable. Circa 1974 |
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I have bought few watches from them and recommend them if you are looking to buy a watch. I as actually able to buy few watches from them that were not listed on their website. Apparently they have a lot of inventory that doesn’t even make it to the website. So if your are looking for vintage watches, you might want email them, if you can’t find it on the site.
Thank you for all the help Raymin.
I have bought few watches from them and recommend them if you are looking to buy a watch. I as actually able to buy few watches from them that were not listed on their website. Apparently they have a lot of inventory that doesn’t even make it to the website. So if your are looking for vintage watches, you might want email them, if you can’t find it on the site.
Thank you for all the help Raymin.
ROLEX CELLINI DANAOS XL 4243
Wire Transfer Customer
Dear Raymin,
I have received the watch! It’s beautiful and exactly as described. Thank you very much for making the international delivery a very pleasant one. I appreciate your quick and frequent updates, your fantastic customer service and definitely your competitive
prices. Looking forward to buying more from you in future!
Warm regards, Hendri
prices. Looking forward to buying more from you in future!
Jaeger Lecoultre Grand Reverso 8 days
Wire Transfer Customer
I am delighted with the vintage watch that I purchased from 'Expert Watches'. It is in exactly the condition that was described with perfect patina. As a customer I could not be more delighted with the service Provided by Raymin. The communication has been
first rate and the way in which, as a first time buyer, I was helped with the details of purchase, transfer of funds and shipping was fantastic. The watch arrived on the other side of the Atlantic, expertly packaged and tracked. All in all I would thoroughly 'Expert Watches' and I will certainly be purchasing again from them to add to my vintage watch collection.
first rate and the way in which, as a first time buyer, I was helped with the details of purchase, transfer of funds and shipping was fantastic. The watch arrived on the other side of the Atlantic, expertly packaged and tracked. All in all I would thoroughly 'Expert Watches' and I will certainly be purchasing again from them to add to my vintage watch collection.
David UK
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