Vintage BullHead Chronograph Watches: History, Design & Collector's Guide
Mar 14, 2024
Few watch designs are as instantly recognizable — or as genuinely functional — as the vintage BullHead chronograph. With the crown and pushers positioned at 12 o'clock rather than the traditional 3 o'clock, these watches look unlike anything else on the wrist and were engineered for a specific purpose: giving professionals fast, unobstructed access to their chronograph functions. At Experts Watches, we've been sourcing and authenticating exceptional BullHead pieces for over 25 years.
In This Guide
- What Is a BullHead Watch?
- Why Were BullHeads Designed This Way?
- The History of Vintage BullHead Chronograph Watches
- Movements Found in Vintage BullHead Watches
- Notable BullHead References to Know
- Why Collect a Vintage BullHead?
- What to Look for When Buying a Vintage BullHead
- Frequently Asked Questions
What Is a BullHead Watch?
A BullHead watch is a type of chronograph watch where the crown and chronograph pushers are located at the top of the case — at 12 o'clock — rather than the conventional 3 o'clock position. Viewed from above, the protruding crown and two pushers resemble the horns and nose of a bull, giving the style its name.
The asymmetrical case design — wider and thicker at the top — naturally tilts the dial toward 6 o'clock when worn, making the time easier to read at a glance. The larger, bolder case proportions also make BullHeads among the most visually striking watches of the 1970s era.
Why Were BullHeads Designed This Way?
The BullHead configuration wasn't purely aesthetic — it solved a real problem. Professionals who wore watches over thick suits, gloves, or gear — racing drivers, pilots, divers, military personnel — often found that a conventional crown at 3 o'clock was blocked or difficult to reach. By moving the controls to the top of the case, the chronograph functions remained accessible regardless of what was worn over the watch.
Consider: Omega Speedmaster astronauts wore their watches over pressurized suits. Divers wore theirs over thick neoprene. Racing drivers wore theirs over fireproof gloves. The BullHead design ensured that in any of these scenarios, starting and stopping the chronograph was never an issue.
The History of Vintage BullHead Chronograph Watches
BullHead chronographs emerged in the late 1960s and reached peak popularity through the 1970s — an era defined by bold design, oversized cases, and a fascination with motorsport and space exploration. The style was embraced by a wide range of Swiss and Japanese manufacturers, each bringing their own interpretation to the format.
Major Swiss producers included Omega, Breitling, Bucherer, Bulova, Sicura, Tissot, Rotary, and Lemania — who supplied movements to many of these brands as an OEM manufacturer. Japanese giants Citizen and Seiko also produced notable BullHead references that remain highly collectible today.
The most iconic BullHead of all is arguably the Omega Reference ST.146.0011 — part of the Seamaster Chronostop collection, introduced in 1970. It remains one of the most sought-after BullHead references and consistently commands strong prices at auction.
Movements Found in Vintage BullHead Watches
Understanding the movement inside a BullHead is key to evaluating its quality and value. There are three main caliber families to know:
Omega Cal. 872 / Lemania 1872
The finest movement found in BullHead watches. The Omega 872 is based on the legendary Omega 861 (itself derived from the Lemania 2310 family) and was manufactured by Lemania. It is a column-wheel chronograph of exceptional quality — smooth, precise, and built to last. Watches powered by this caliber, including the Omega 146.011 and various Bucherer BullHeads, represent the top tier of the category.
Valjoux 7733 & 7734
The Valjoux 7733 (without date) and 7734 (with date) are cam-lever chronograph movements — a step below the column-wheel 872 in terms of feel, but still robust and well-regarded. Many mid-tier BullHead references from Tissot, Sicura, and others used these calibers. They are well-supported by the watchmaking community and parts remain available.
Valjoux 7740 / Breitling Cal. 12
The Breitling BullHead used a movement based on the Valjoux 7740, branded as Caliber 12. This is a more complex movement with additional complications and is specific to the Breitling reference — making it a distinct and desirable piece in its own right.
Pin-Lever Calibers
A number of lower-cost BullHead watches used inexpensive pin-lever movements. In these cases, the watch's visual appeal is often the primary draw. These pieces can be fun conversation starters but should not be confused with the quality of lever-escapement examples.
Notable BullHead References to Know
Omega ST.146.0011
The definitive BullHead. Powered by the Cal. 872, housed in a bold stainless steel case, and part of the Seamaster Chronostop line. One of the first results you'll find when searching "BullHead watch" — and for good reason.
Bucherer BullHead Ref. 9601
A stunning and underrated reference powered by the Lemania 1872. Bucherer's retail heritage and the quality of the movement make this one of the best-value BullHeads available to collectors today.
Breitling BullHead
Breitling's take on the BullHead is characteristically bold — larger case, aviation-inspired dial, and the brand's signature Cal. 12 movement. A must-know reference for any serious chronograph collector.
Carronade BullHead (Valjoux 7734)
A rarer and more obscure reference, the Carronade BullHead uses a modified Valjoux 7734 and offers a distinctive gold-toned aesthetic. A great entry point for collectors seeking something off the beaten path.
Why Collect a Vintage BullHead?
- Unique design: No other watch style looks quite like a BullHead. They are conversation pieces that stand out in any collection.
- Genuine functionality: The top-crown layout was engineered for real-world professional use — not just aesthetics.
- Relative accessibility: A solid example of a genuine 1970s BullHead can often be found for under $2,000 — exceptional value for a column-wheel Swiss chronograph.
- Scarcity: BullHeads were produced in limited quantities and represent a small slice of the vintage chronograph market, making them increasingly hard to find in original condition.
- Investment potential: As awareness grows among younger collectors, prices for the best examples have been steadily rising.
What to Look for When Buying a Vintage BullHead
Case Condition
BullHead cases are complex shapes that are difficult to re-polish correctly. Look for sharp edges, unpolished surfaces, and honest wear rather than over-buffed cases that have lost their original geometry.
Dial Originality
Original dials with consistent aging are paramount. BullHead dials often feature bold colors and multi-register layouts — check that all printing is intact and that there are no signs of refinishing or restoration.
Chronograph Function
All three chronograph functions — start, stop, reset — should operate crisply. On column-wheel movements like the 872/1872, the action should feel smooth and positive. Any hesitation or sticking warrants a service.
Buy from a Trusted Dealer
BullHead watches are increasingly misrepresented online. Work with a dealer who can authenticate the movement, confirm the reference, and stand behind the sale. Our Certified Pre-Owned Program covers every piece we sell — inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a BullHead watch?
A BullHead watch is a chronograph with the crown and pushers positioned at 12 o'clock rather than the standard 3 o'clock. The protruding controls resemble a bull's horns when viewed from above, giving the style its name. The design was engineered for professionals who needed unobstructed access to chronograph functions while wearing gloves or gear.
What is the most collectible BullHead watch?
The Omega ST.146.0011 is widely considered the definitive BullHead reference. Powered by the column-wheel Cal. 872 and part of the Seamaster Chronostop line, it is the most recognized and consistently valuable BullHead on the market. The Bucherer Ref. 9601 (Lemania 1872) and Breitling BullHead are also highly sought after.
How much does a vintage BullHead watch cost?
Prices vary widely by brand and condition. Entry-level BullHeads with Valjoux movements can be found from around $500–$1,500. Mid-tier examples in excellent condition typically range from $1,500–$3,500. The Omega 146.011 in top condition regularly sells for $4,000–$8,000 or more at auction.
What movement is in the Omega BullHead?
The Omega BullHead (Ref. ST.146.0011) is powered by the Omega Cal. 872, manufactured by Lemania and also known as the Lemania 1872. It is a column-wheel chronograph movement of exceptional quality — the same movement family used in the Bucherer BullHead Ref. 9601.
Are BullHead watches a good investment?
BullHeads have shown steady appreciation, particularly top-tier references like the Omega 146.011 and Breitling BullHead. They remain undervalued relative to other vintage chronographs of comparable quality and rarity. Original condition, correct dials, and documented service history are the key value drivers.
Which brands made BullHead watches?
The most notable BullHead producers include Omega, Breitling, Bucherer, Bulova, Tissot, Sicura, Rotary, Lemania, Carronade (Swiss), and the Japanese brands Citizen and Seiko. Lemania also supplied movements to several of these brands as an OEM manufacturer.
Shop Our Vintage BullHead Collection
Browse our curated selection of certified pre-owned BullHead and vintage chronograph watches — inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house. Every piece comes with our CPO guarantee.
Watch Guides & Resources
- Full Watch Guides Library
- Brief History of Diving Watches
- For the Love of Vintage Watches
- History of Lemania Watches & the 2310 Movement
Sell or Trade Your Vintage BullHead
We actively acquire exceptional vintage BullHead chronographs and other rare timepieces. Whether you're looking to sell or trade, we provide honest market valuations, transparent offers, and a seamless process from authentication to payment. Get an offer for your vintage watch →
📚 Explore our full Watch Guides library — including Vintage Watch Care Guide, serial number lookups, sizing charts, and movement histories
🔎 CPO Program — every watch inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house
🕰️ Sell, trade, or upgrade your watch
💬 Contact us — we have more in stock than listed and will treat you like a VIP
Trusted vintage & luxury watch dealer since 2000 | Shop Dive Watches | CPO Program | Sell / Trade | Contact Us
