5 Tips Tricks for Buying Vintage Watches Online
Oct 06, 2022
Buying a vintage watch online is one of the most rewarding experiences in collecting — but it comes with unique risks that buying new simply doesn’t. Unlike modern watches, vintage pieces have decades of history, wear, and potential repairs behind them. Knowing what to look for before you buy can mean the difference between a great acquisition and a costly mistake. Here are our 5 essential tips, refined over 25 years of sourcing and selling vintage timepieces at Experts Watches.
What’s the Story Behind That Watch?
Many people wear watches as an accessory because they believe they look good and make them appear more sophisticated. However, the story behind a watch is often more interesting than you might think.
1810 — The First Wristwatch
Breguet’s most brilliant innovations, and indisputably one of his most useful — the wristwatch. In response to a commission from the Queen of Naples on June 8th, 1810, Breguet conceived and made the first wristwatch ever known: the Breguet watch number 2639.
With the acquisition of thirty-four clocks and watches from 1808 up to 1814, the ambitious and very beautiful Queen of Naples easily took pride of place among Breguet’s best clients. Every vintage watch carries a story like this — of the hands that made it, the wrists that wore it, and the era it came from. That history is part of what you’re buying.
5 Tips for Buying Vintage Watches Online
1. Know What You Are Buying
When purchasing a vintage watch, it is important to know what you are buying. Make sure to get a copy of the watch’s certificate of inspection.
A word of caution: there is a lot of information online about vintage watches — forums, social media groups, and amateur listings — and not all of it is accurate. Misinformation about references, movements, and values is common, and it can lead buyers to overpay or purchase misrepresented pieces. The safest approach is to work directly with an experienced, reputable dealer who can answer every question about the watch in front of them.
At Experts Watches, we provide the reference number, movement caliber, approximate production year, and detailed condition notes for every piece we sell. Over 50% of our inventory sells before it’s even listed online — contact us directly to access our full inventory.
2. Know the Condition of the Watch
It is also important to know the condition of the watch. A good rule of thumb is to buy a watch that is in good condition, not a watch that is “as is”. Check out our Guarantee.
Condition in vintage watches is nuanced. “As is” listings can mean anything from minor cosmetic wear to a non-running movement with missing parts. Always ask for detailed photos of the dial, case, case back, crown, pushers (if a chronograph), and the movement if possible. Look for:
- Dial: Original printing intact, no cracks, no moisture damage, consistent aging across all sub-dials
- Case: Sharp lugs, no heavy polishing that removes metal and destroys original geometry
- Crystal: Original acrylic or mineral crystal where applicable — replacements are fine but should be disclosed
- Crown: Original and correct for the reference, no damage to threads
- Movement: Running, keeping reasonable time, all functions operational
Honest wear and patina are desirable in vintage watches — they tell the story of the piece. What you want to avoid is damage, undisclosed repairs, or replaced parts that affect authenticity and value. Every watch in our vintage collection is photographed in detail and described honestly.
3. Measure Your Wrist
Be sure to have an accurate measurement of your wrist when shopping for a vintage watch, since vintage watches were made smaller than modern watches. When shopping for watches on bracelets, check the size. You can always add a strap to your watch for a more elegant look — larger size straps are available to accommodate all wrist sizes.
Most vintage watches from the 1950s–1970s have case diameters in the 34–38mm range — significantly smaller than the 40–44mm that has become the modern standard. This doesn’t mean they look small on the wrist; the case proportions, lug width, and dial design of vintage pieces are often more elegant and wearable than their measurements suggest. Not sure what will work for your wrist? Contact us — we’ve been fitting customers with the right vintage watch for over 25 years.
4. Understand Movement Types & Service Level
When buying a vintage watch, it is important to have a knowledge of the different movement types. Some collectors like to pay extra for serviced watches, while others prefer untouched watches. You can always contact Experts Watches for the best choice for you — we also provide service for your watch and certify our watches with the most comprehensive inspection. Shop by movement.
Understanding the movement inside a vintage watch helps you evaluate its quality, serviceability, and long-term ownership costs. Key things to know:
- Manual vs. automatic: Manual-winding movements require daily winding; automatics wind via wrist motion. Both are common in vintage watches and neither is inherently superior.
- Column-wheel chronographs: Column-wheel movements like the Lemania 2310 family are generally considered the gold standard for vintage chronograph quality — smooth, precise, and built to last generations.
- Service history: A recently serviced movement by a qualified watchmaker is a significant plus. Ask for service records when available.
- Parts availability: Well-known calibers from major Swiss manufacturers have good parts availability. We service and certify every watch we sell — learn about our CPO program.
5. Learn How to Care for Vintage Watches
Finally, it is always best to have an understanding of vintage watches and how to care for them. Vintage watches are more delicate and can be damaged if not treated properly. Please check our Vintage Watch Care Guide.
A few essential care principles for vintage watch owners:
- Water resistance: Most vintage watches are not water resistant — gaskets degrade over decades. Keep your vintage watch away from water, humidity, and steam unless it has been recently pressure-tested by a watchmaker.
- Magnetism: Vintage movements can be sensitive to magnetic fields from phones, speakers, and laptop closures. Exposure to magnets can cause erratic timekeeping. A watchmaker can demagnetize a movement quickly and inexpensively.
- Winding: For manual-winding watches, wind gently and stop when you feel resistance — never force the crown. Wind at the same time each day to build a routine.
- Storage: Store vintage watches in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. UV exposure can fade dials and degrade rubber gaskets and straps over time.
- Regular service: Even a well-running vintage watch benefits from a service every 5–8 years to replace lubricants, inspect worn parts, and ensure long-term reliability.
Have questions about caring for a specific piece? Contact our team — we’re happy to advise, whether you bought from us or not.
Shop Our Vintage Watch Collection
Browse our curated selection of certified pre-owned vintage watches — inspected, timed, and authenticated in-house. Every piece comes with our CPO guarantee.
Watch Guides & Resources
- Full Watch Guides Library
- Vintage Watch Care Guide
- Brief History of Diving Watches
- For the Love of Vintage Watches
Sell or Trade Your Vintage Watch
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