Serviced Vintage 1970's Lemania BullHead Chronograph 872 Omega 930 Watch CPO

HISTORY

Lemania is a name that should be familiar to vintage watch collectors, if not for watches released under its own signature, but for its contributions to other brands. Like the Caliber CH27 & CH27 C12, better-known as the Omega Caliber 320 & 321, which would go on to be used in the Omega Speedmaster—the first watch worn on the Moon. But Lemania’s history goes back farther than that, extending all the way to the mid-19th century, when two brothers—Alfred and Henry Alfred Lugrin—were born in the Vallée de Joux. Henry Alfred, the elder of the two, excelled at anything he put his mind to; like many of his neighbors in the valley, he set his mind to watchmaking. After learning the craft in his teens, he left for the United States. He found himself in Brooklyn, New York, where the census of 1900 had his occupation—as one would expect—as a watchmaker. 

In the small, insular Swiss watchmaking community in the States, he became acquainted with another Swiss emigre: Albert Wittnauer. Wittnauer had emigrated to America in the 1870s, as a lad of sixteen with ambitions as wide as the Atlantic. While he originally worked for his brother-in-law Eugene Robert, an importer of fine Swiss timepieces made by Jaeger-LeCoultre and others, in 1885 Wittnauer established his own company at the age of 31. And when Wittnauer formed his own company, Henry Alfred—who had been foreman at Robert’s shop—went with him. This relationship was more than fruitful, for both parties. While with Wittnauer, Henry Alfred filed over eleven patents for watch calibers, mainly the chronographs and stopwatches that he had made his specialty.

 Alfred Lugrin was not a man to be outdone, by his brother or by anyone else. Born with a competitive spirit, Alfred also set forth to succeed, and he chose the same field as his older brother. Like Henry Alfred, he excelled at chronographs, and attracted the attention of Longines, who purchased the license for one of his patents and used it in their own watches.

By 1884 (the year before big brother Henry Alfred and Albert Wittnauer would go into business together), he’d established A. Lugrin S.A. in the village of L’Orient, at the foot of the Lac de Joux. The name Lugrin became one to revere in Swiss watchmaking circles, and his refined, elegant chronograph designs earned him many awards. The timing could not have been better, nor more crucial, because the watchmaking innovations from America (many of which were the fruits of his brother’s diligence) posed a serious threat to Swiss supremacy. While the Swiss had been doing the same thing for centuries, the Americans adapted the example put forth by Henry Ford and were churning out (well-made and affordable) watches at a rate the Swiss could hardly match.

So in the early 19th century, many Swiss followed the American model and adapted it to their own ends, forming large factories devoted exclusively to the production of watch movements. Lemania, which Alfred Lugrin would form in 1918, was one of those. By the time Alfred retired as managing director in 1920, replaced by his son-in-law Maurius Meylan, Lemania was well-poised to withstand the onslaught of American ingenuity. Even after the Great Depression shook every pillar of the worldwide economy, Lemania was on the up-and-up. Omega and Tissot, forced to band together or else risk complete collapse, formed SSIH in 1930. Two years later, the group would purchase Lemania, and it was under this banner that Lemania’s greatest achievement would be made. 

We mean, of course, the creation of the CH27, which Buzz Aldrin would bear all the way to the Moon, a half-century after Alfred Lugrin formed Lemania.  In essence, the ancestor of that legendary calibre. Derived from a pocket watch movement, the Calibre 15TL was created in the 1930s. At 33mm, the Calibre 15TL is large, serviceable but elegant. Under the expert pen of Albert Piguet, Lemania’s star designer in the 1930s-1940s, it would form the basis of the CH27.  While it was also used in military-issued chronographs, the example that we found here is a civilian version. The movement is housed in sturdy, thick 37mm steel case with sharply-angled lugs, and a gorgeous dial— with an outer tachymeter track. Aside from its legendary movement, it captures all the spirit of the Lugrin brothers in a package that’s pleasing to the eye. 

Having a love for complications and complicated watches, makes me love Chronograph watches. At first two register chronograph for simplicity of the dial and providing chronograph functionality for the most. Then the three-register chronograph for the complication of movement and the history of the movements, like of the iconic Omega Ref. 321, Ref. 861 (used in famous moon landing), Zenith El Primero, Venus mostly used in Breitlings, Landeron, and one of the most well-known movement makers Valjoux. With their famous Valjoux 72 put in the vintage Rolex Pre Daytona’s and of course the big dog Patek Philippe reference 2499 using Valjoux 88 my favorite which sold in auction for $3.30 Million in 2018.  I also love the Heuer Caliber 11 first micro automatic chronograph movement with date.

A Chronograph is simply a watch that combines the function of a stopwatch with a timekeeping display watch, by utilizing an independent sweep second hand. Chronographs often have complications on the face of the watch which can be used to record different time measurements, moon cycles, heart rate and more. Chronographs have usually have a separate buttons to stop, start, and reset (unless it is an monopusher) the stopwatch complication, with the start button typically at the two and four o’clock position.

The name Chronograph is derived from the Greek words ‘Chronos’ – the personification of time – and ‘graph’, meaning to write. The first modern Chronograph was created in 1816 by French watchmaker, Louis Moinet. Invented solely for use in union with astrological equipment, Moinet’s Chronograph could measure time accurate to 1/60th of a second – an unrivaled degree of precision at the time of its creation.

"poor man's" Heu-ers represent an interesting facet of Heu-er's history and also provide a sensible way for individuals to collect these chronographs on a more reasonable budget. The term "Poor Man's Heu-er" only to refer to chronographs manufactured by Heu-er for other brands one of which is Zodiac & Clebar, which is one of my favorite brands. Please note on ebay there are few brands that are not made by Heu-er and still refer to as Poor man which is not true.

This is a beauty, we all know Omega & Lemania made a lot of watches together (They also made this watch for Bucherer). This one is not different. The watches were always variant of there own watch, this one is variant of the famous "Omega Seamaster Bullhead 146.011 with inner rotating bezel, would have trouble hiding its 1970s roots, offering the funky vibe you could only expect from that period. This reference is the most coveted “Bull Head” because of its uncommon hands and pushers at 11, 12, and 1 O'Clock".  The Omega version which this was based on has a different case, and larger in size, and dial.   Makes this watch even rarer than the Omega, given the lower products numbers. This is probably one of my favor it, sleeper vintage brand at least in the USA. Lemaina made movement and watches, and they co-made alots of watches back in the days, with Omega and swatch watch brands. This is one of them. It is very rare to find a watch this old in this condition. Defiantly a collector watch. Please look at all the pictures, as they are part of the description. The watch is working and keeping great time. This is a highly collectible watch. Very few left with this rare movement. Sure, to increase in value overtime, and a great addition to your collection. The condition of the watch is the same as it appears in the photos.    The watch is working and is part of our new  Certified Pre-Owned CPO.  Contact me if you have any questions first.